James Glover II / Star staff A taquito combo plate sits atop one of the hand-carved tables at Luna's Mexican Tradition in Oxnard.

Here's a look back at Rita Moran's recent restaurant reviews, in chronological order. Moran visits restaurants unannounced and pays for her meals.

Luna's Mexican Tradition, 2000 Outlet Center Drive, The Palms, Suite 290, Oxnard. 988-8920. The Sanchez family serves up home-style, traditional Mexican fare at very reasonable prices in the quiet shopping center. Family members manage the order-at-the-counter eatery and are central to the cooking. Breakfast items include such funny-sounding but delicious dishes as Huevos Divorciados (Divorced Eggs) and Desparamado Eggs (Crazy Eggs), both of which feature fine, fresh sauces. The all-day menu (8 a.m. to 8 p.m.) is full of traditional favorites, with some family touches.

Matteo's Trattoria, 795 Camarillo Springs Road, Suite A, Camarillo. 484-9674. Under new ownership since last year, the restaurant has a French-Italian bent with a hint of the Brazilian. Open for dinner Thursdays through Saturdays, and lunch on weekdays, it maintains a menu that touches many culinary bases, including typical American fare. The pleasant dining room and enclosed patio offer views toward the hills lining the Conejo Grade. Service is amiable and prompt. At dinnertime, check out the weekly specials for interesting and creative dishes such as white salmon stuffed with spinach and mushrooms.

Oh! Sushi, 2121 N. Rose Ave., Suite 400, Oxnard, near Wal-Mart. 988-0808. A bright and lively sushi spot in an Oxnard shopping center, Oh! Sushi offers Japanese specialties to suit almost any taste, from noodles and teriyaki to plenty of sushi and sashimi (all of the basics, plus 35 specialty rolls). Appetizers include a very good pokky tuna plate. Combos range from basic rice bowls to substantial dinners.

Seagrass restaurant, 30 E. Ortega St., Santa Barbara. 963-1012. Seagrass specializes in fresh local seafood from the Santa Barbara Fish Market, plus fish and shellfish from sustainable fisheries, and produce from the farmers market. A sister restaurant to bouchon in Santa Barbara, it has the same proprietor, Mitchell Sjerven, and chef, Josh Brown. The decor, in the space that was formerly Sage & Onion, radiates sea atmosphere. Scallops are offered as an appetizer or entree, each with its own unusual preparation. Other highlights of the menu, which changes seasonally, are citrus-glazed ahi tuna and Meyer lemon curd tart.

Harvard Cafe, 650 W. Harvard Blvd., Santa Paula. 921-0400. The modest cafe has a menu that covers breakfast, lunch and dinner at reasonable prices. It also offers the occasional surprise among its daily specials and regular menu (the latter includes the Black and Blue Quesadilla featuring sauteed mushrooms, red onions, grilled chicken strips, bell peppers and a sprinkling of blue cheese). Fans applaud the soups; the cream of broccoli is a winner. Service is prompt and helpful, and the atmosphere is basic but welcoming.