If you like Leila's in Oak Park, it's a good bet you'll be pleased with Bistro Ella in Newbury Park. Both are owned by Peyman Afshar, whose fresh and eclectic approach to restaurants never fails to intrigue.

Bistro Ella opened several months ago in a new complex near the Courtyard by Marriott hotel, within easy access of Highway 101. We stopped by around 5:45 on a Friday night and were the second couple to arrive. By the time we left some 90 minutes later, every table was taken.

It was quite a different scene from our experience at the Braised Beef Company, the short-lived, fast-casual eatery that Afshar opened at the same address late last summer. The space then seemed much smaller — in keeping, perhaps, with the menu that featured braised beef in every dish, including ladled over salad.

The new bistro is light-years away from that concept, and deservedly much more successful.

Cushioned banquettes line the walls; tables are covered with white cloths; and the utensils are handsome, with a nice heft in place of the previous plastic forks and knives. The staff is attentive and clearly well-trained.

Best of all, the food is much more like Leila's, and that can only be a good thing. Braised beef is on the menu — in the form of boneless braised beef short ribs with parsnip puree and horseradish.

To give you some idea of the "surprises" on the menu, the bistro's regular soup is smooth tomato bisque, served "with mini grilled cheese sandwich." And in lieu of bread and butter or other spreads, spiced lavash crackers are brought to the table in a glass globe at the start of the meal. The thin crackers are quite satisfying in flavor and texture.

We started with ahi tuna carpaccio ($12), then added the "soup of the week," cream of artichoke ($7).

The carpaccio was spread across a large plate, with lovely slices of the tuna enhanced by shallots, giant capers (or caperberries), with lemon, olive oil, red chili flakes and Parmesan cheese. The flavors played off one another beautifully, and the tuna itself was very fine.

The big, flat bowl of soup was meticulously decorated in a continuous line with red pepper coulis, which served not only as a visual treat but also to charge the mellow artichoke flavor with an extra spark.

We hadn't seen a Waldorf salad on a menu in quite a while, but the name still brings to mind crisp chunks of apple, crunchy walnuts and celery mixed together with creamy mayonnaise. Under the guidance of chef Richard DeMane, Bistro Ella's version ($10) touches on all of the old-fashioned bases but manages to be contemporary, too.

The apples are marinated, giving them a tart tint. The walnuts are toasted, and the "celery" is actually strips of celeriac, or celery root. Bleu cheese and a light lemon-honey dressing take the place of traditional mayo. The result is unusual and quite delicious.

A spinach-feta-ricotta ravioli entree ($17) was so tender and tasty that we almost fought over it. The ravioli themselves were in huge, thin, tender circles, gently stuffed with the filling and served in a sun-dried tomato and brown butter sauce. Providing the perfect accents were large, crisped basil leaves sprinkled with cheese. They were simultaneously pretty and tasty.

The menu description of the spicy porcini lamb Bolognese ($20) included such a mix of ingredients that we had to give it a try. It arrived in a large portion, filling a flat bowl with rigatoni pasta and a bold mixture of ground lamb, pine nuts and basil pesto, topped with an equally bold crumble of goat cheese.

It was a lot of flavor and a lot of food, much of which we carried home in a box. The combination grew on me as I nibbled; lamb lovers might find it an addiction.

A glass of Pillar Box Red wine, an Australian blend of shiraz, cabernet and merlot, stood up well next to the hearty dish.

A thankfully light lemon crème brûlée and cups of excellent coffee completed our Bistro Ella experience. It was a perfect brûlée, with the tincture of lemon adding a very pleasant scent and flavor.

— Rita Moran visits restaurants unannounced and pays for her meals. If you know of a new, unusual or just plain good restaurant, please contact her at ritamoran@earthlink.net.