@TO-Cal Stand Out hed:Treasure Beach and Cafe 928 E. Ojai Ave., Ojai. 640-0611. A real find, just outside downtown Ojai, Treasure Beach and Cafe has elegant dining rooms, a small but appealing menu that changes regularly and a well-chosen wine list. Joined in the enterprise, which includes a fashion shop at the entry, are retailer Mary Goldberg and chef-caterer Jeri Oshima, a follower of the Slow Food movement. Ingredients are selected for their localness, seasonality and quality. The beet, mint and wild arugula salad is a standout, as is the broiled miso black cod with cold soba noodles and blanched spinach salad. Topping all, in season, is the roasted apricot sherbet. xxxxxx

Here's a look back at Rita Moran's recent restaurant reviews, in chronological order. Moran visits restaurants unannounced and pays for her meals.

Treasure Beach and Cafe, 928 E. Ojai Ave., Ojai. 640-0611. A real find just outside downtown Ojai, Treasure Beach and Cafe has elegant dining rooms, a small but appealing menu that changes regularly and a well-chosen wine list. Joined in the enterprise, which includes a fashion shop at the entry, are retailer Mary Goldberg and chef-caterer Jeri Oshima, a follower of the Slow Food movement. Ingredients are selected for their local-ness, seasonality and quality. The beet, mint and wild arugula salad is a standout, as is the broiled miso black cod with cold soba noodles and blanched spinach salad.

Herb & Spice Thai Cuisine, 1407 E. Los Angeles Ave., Unit U, Simi Valley. 522-5000. A comfortable and quiet oasis in a busy shopping center, Herb & Spice has an energetic, helpful staff and a range of Thai dishes. A bakers' dozen of salad options includes the delicious yum woon-sen: silver noodles with shrimp, chicken and a sprinkling of peanuts, bathed in a lively sauce. Dinner features seafood, noodle dishes, curries and Thai barbecue. The red curry with pineapple and tomatoes is very good, and the crab-fried rice a fine dish to share. Fresh mango and Thai sticky rice is a refreshing dessert.

Shamsi's Deli and Breakfast House, 2705 E. Thompson Blvd., Ventura. 643-6611. The international deli features food and grocery items from Italy, Argentina and the Middle East, along with more traditional American fare. Breakfast has recently been added to the mix and includes basic dishes (waffles, omelets, eggs) as well as specials. The Greek omelet is a flavorful staple on the menu; other items include corned beef hash and biscuits and zesty gravy. Later in the day homemade soup, empanadas, sandwiches and salads are available, some with a Chilean twist.

Lucerne Restaurant, 868 Arneill Road, Camarillo. 383-5777. The new, elegant Italian restaurant serves a wide range of dishes. Pastas are light and tender; sauces are prepared with a fine sense of balance; and service is amiable and efficient. Available at lunch or dinner are gnocchi Loren, ravioli matriciana and, on the day we visited, a cannelloni stuffed with ground chicken and served with mushrooms and a light, slightly creamy marinara sauce. Desserts are delicate and delicious.

Pacific Fresh Seafood Grill, in the Vons center, 2060 E. Avenida de Los Arboles, Thousand Oaks. 493-0104. The family-founded (and family-friendly) restaurant lures diners with Greek specialties and grilled seafood, along with other familiar dishes. The Athenian shrimp appetizer has a terrific sauce, and the tarama salad (a smooth paste made with fish roe) is delicious with pita bread (order enough and it could serve as a first course). Grilled lamb shoulder chops are oozing with flavor, and the homemade baklava is chock-full of walnuts and honey, seasoned with aromatic spices. Prices are reasonable.