Why, you may wonder, do different wines made from the same type of grape taste different?

The reasons are many — from differences in the climates of the various grape-growing regions to the type of soil under the vines to the choices made in the method of production.

Starting with climatic differences, grapes grown in cooler climates retain a higher level of acidity than the same grapes grown in a warm climate. Higher acidity will produce a crisper, more refreshing texture in the wine.

On the other hand, grapes grown in a warmer climate will have less acidity and greater ripeness, and thus a higher alcohol content when fermented, and will yield a wine with a fuller, rounder body.

Chardonnay grown in these two disparate environments produces two very different wine styles. This difference in crispness versus fullness is sometimes referred to as a difference in "mouth feel."

The addition of oak in the fermentation or aging process also contributes to mouth feel in the wine compared to one that gets little or no contact with oak.

Soils vary greatly around the world and even throughout California's many wine regions. Soils might be composed of chalk, limestone, clay, sand, gravel, loam or other components that may impart a unique flavor to the wine.

For example, some people claim that grapes grown in the Rutherford area of Napa produce wines with an identifiable "Rutherford dust" character, described usually as a herbaceous spiciness.

In addition to the above reasons, other factors, such as whether a wine is filtered or blended with another grape, will create a producer's overall style and character ,and thus differentiate it from other producers' wines made from the same grape.

— Len Napolitano is certified in wine by the Society of Wine Educators, Wine & Spirits Education Trust and Chicago Wine School and continually gains knowledge from his frequent contact with California winemakers. More information is on his Web site, at http://www.wineology.com. Send your questions about wine to wineologist@earthlink.net or by mail to Len Napolitano in care of the Ventura County Star, P.O. Box 6006, Camarillo, CA 93011. Wineology is a registered trademark of Len Napolitano.