Okra, a pod-shaped member of the hibiscus and cotton family, is known for being an acquired taste. Try acquiring it for yourself by making one of the following recipes during the height of okra season, which runs through early fall.

CRISPY OKRA SALAD

Don't have ready access to chaat masala, a blend of dried ginger, mango powder, coriander and other spices? Then try using red curry powder instead in this recipe from Suvir Saran's "American Masala: 125 New Classics from My Home Kitchen" ($35, Clarkson Potter, 2007).

Canola oil

1 pound okra, stemmed and thinly sliced lengthwise

1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced

1 medium or 2 small tomatoes, cored, seeded and thinly sliced

1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Juice of 1/2 lemon

1 teaspoon kosher salt

11/2 teaspoons chaat masala

Heat 2 inches of oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot to 350 degrees. Add a third of the okra and fry until browned and crisp.

Transfer to a paper towel-lined plate and repeat with the remaining okra, making sure the oil temperature comes back to 350 degrees before frying additional batches.

In a large bowl, toss the fried okra with the onion, tomatoes, cilantro, lemon juice, salt and chaat masala. Taste for seasoning and serve immediately.

Serves four.

ROASTED OKRA WITH FRESH PEANUTS

Amelia Saltsman's "The Santa Monica Farmers' Market Cookbook: Seasonal Foods, Simple Recipes and Stories from the Market and Farm" ($22.95, Blenheim Press, 2007) is the source for this recipe. To peel the fresh peanuts, tap their shells lightly with hammer, then use your fingers to rub away the moist inner skin before chopping the nuts.

1 pound small red or green okra pods, each 2 to 3 inches long

1 cup shelled fresh peanuts (about 1/2 pound in the shell), coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher or sea salt

Red pepper flakes

1 lemon

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Rinse the okra and rub dry with paper towels to remove sticky fuzz. Trim the stem ends but do not cut away the caps. Scatter the okra and peanuts on a large baking sheet and toss with the oil and some salt and red pepper flakes.

Roast in the upper third of the oven, giving the pan a shake halfway through the cooking time, until the okra is tender and its edges are browned and crisped and the peanuts are crunchy, about 20 minutes. Place on a serving dish, squeeze the juice from the lemon over all, and season to taste with salt and additional red pepper flakes.

FRIED OKRA

"Prepared well, fried okra embodies the flavors of a primal Southern garden," the chef and owner of Highlands Bar & Grill in Alabama writes in "Frank Stitt's Southern Table" (Artisan, 2004, $40). "At home, with a big, cast-iron skillet ... you'll be able to cook up a perfect batch."

Stitt adds that, although larger okra is often sold "for frying," he prefers the flavor and texture of smaller pods.

2 pounds small okra, stem ends trimmed, sliced into quarter-inch thick slices

1 cup cornmeal

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon kosher salt, or to taste

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste

1 cup buttermilk

11/2 cups vegetable oil or lard, or as needed

Place the okra in a bowl of ice water for 15 minutes to crisp; drain and pat dry.

Combine the cornmeal, flour, salt and pepper in a shallow pan. Transfer the okra to a large bowl and toss with the buttermilk. Lift the okra out with a slotted spoon and place in the pan of cornmeal, tossing it around to lightly coat. Transfer the okra to a rack set over a baking sheet.

In a large, deep, cast-iron or other heavy skillet, heat 3/4 cup of the oil over high heat until almost smoking. Add just enough okra to cover the bottom of the skillet in a single layer, without crowding, lower the heat to medium, and cook until golden and crusty on the bottom, about 6 minutes.

Turn and cook, tossing the okra once or twice, until well-colored and crisp on all sides.

With a slotted spoon, transfer okra to a paper towel-lined sheet pan and season with salt and pepper. Keep warm in a low oven while you continue to cook the okra in batches, adding the remaining oil to the pan as needed. Dig in while the okra is warm.

Serves six to eight as a side dish.

BARBECUED OKRA

This recipe by Steven Raichlen was featured in an episode of "BBQ with Bobby Flay" on the Food Network.

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon sweet paprika

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon ground coriander

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/4 teaspoon celery seed

1 pound fresh okra

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, melted, or olive oil

Preheat the grill to high.

Place the salt, paprika, sugar, coriander, black pepper, cayenne, and celery seed in a small bowl and stir to mix.

Rinse the okra under cold running water and blot dry with paper towels. Trim the tips off the stem ends of the okra but do not cut into the pods. Place the okra in a large mixing bowl, add the butter and toss to coat. Add the rub mixture and toss to coat.

When ready to cook, arrange the okra on the hot grate so that they are perpendicular to the bars or you may wish to skewer four or five pods side by side with bamboo skewers that have been soaked in water to keep any stray okra from falling through the grates and into the fire.

Grill the okra until nicely browned, about 2 to 4 minutes per side, turning with tongs as needed. Transfer the grilled okra to a platter or plates and serve immediately.

Serves four.