Beachside Carpinteria is moving up the culinary ladder with its new Corktree Cellars Wine Bar & Bistro. Right in the center of busy Linden Avenue, Corktree makes an impressive statement with a handsomely renovated space that hosts a striking local art display, well-lighted and effectively placed. Running the length of one wall is a dark wooden banquette, made comfortable with individual-cushion backs. There are intimate tables, an extensive bar area and a lounge full of soft seating for casual sipping and sampling.

Corktree is owned by Jessica Pintard and Kevin Clark, whose relaxed good humor is evident throughout the menu, beginning with a welcome note on the first page. They have put together a menu and wine list that appeals to many tastes and palates. We found it fun to scroll through the options, finding many more good prospects than we could sample at one sitting. But of course, we gave it our best try.

On the wine side, we chose two three-pronged flights of wines, each built around a style or varietal. The flights, which change periodically, are attractively presented on an indented board, with each wine glass surrounded by a wheel of options to select in a vote for the patron's favorites. Shiny copper pennies are handy to place your vote. They also come with neatly printed, cream-colored cardboard identification strips that list the type of wine, its source and a brief description.

A trio of whites, Night in White Satin ($11), consisted of a few ounces of Boutari moschofilero 2006, from Greece; Sokol Blosser Evolution, a blend of nine varietals from Oregon; and Tenuta Luisa pinot grigio, from Corona, Italy. We were familiar with the light and charming Evolution, but the others gave us an opportunity to explore the fruits of less familiar territory. Our second flight, Positively Pinot ($10.50), included a winery we've visited and were comfortable with, Adelaida in Paso Robles. The sample was the 2005 pinot noir. Teamed with it were Hob Nob pinot from France and A to Z pinot noir 2006 from Willamette Valley, Ore. They were all very drinkable, with the French Hob Nob a particular delight with its light take on pinot style. Later, we checked out the shelves of wines for sale by the bottle and picked up the Adelaida and Hob Nob to take home.

There are lots of different directions visitors can take with Corktree's tempting food choices. There are familiar, and not so familiar tapas, those popular "small plates" that enable diners to be as inquisitive as sippers. They're like peanuts — you can't stop at one. We found the Guinness onion rings ($6.95) light, crisp and sweet. The Tequila Gold Shrimp Salad ($13.95) covered an entire plate with mixed greens, then was topped with three nicely grilled shrimp. Diced mango and avocado slices completed the presentation, which came with a very mild ruby red grapefruit buttermilk dressing.

For something more on the main-course side we chose the Say Cheese! goat cheese plate ($13) and the char-grilled rack of lamb ($17.95). The cheese plate was simply wonderful, with three excellent cheeses, plus fig-onion jam, thin apple slices, spiced (and peppery) pecans, plus crostini and water crackers. Humboldt Fog cheese from Cypress Grove was the star of the show, with its subtle flavors and texture. Purple Haze, round little balls of cheese infused with lavender, was an intriguing entry. And we were just as happy with the hard-style goat cheese that completed the group.

We were a little wary of ordering rack of lamb ($17.95) in a bistro that focuses on less pretentious items, but it too measured up, with its full-flavored and tender chops. Floating in the zesty sauce were little submarine-shaped potatoes.

We finished with a flourish, an assorted chocolate plate ($6.95) that featured a bonanza of dipped treats: fresh strawberries, dried apricots, macaroons and shortbread, plus those great pecans drenched in rich chocolate sauce.

We've got to go back to try some of the many options we had to pass. In addition to three versions of the cheese plate, there is also a charcuterie plate of Sorpresatta salami, prosciutto di Parma, Andouille sausage and brown sugar-glazed ham, that comes with olives, gerkins, those great spiced pecans and grilled bread. There are more salads, and a selection of panini served on a choice of focaccia, ciabatta or whole-wheat sourdough bread, and two cold soups, chilled potato-leek and Dueling Chilled Soups, a combination of heirloom tomato gazpacho with cream of cucumber tzatziki soup.

Rumor has it that the rosemary Parmesan and truffle Parmesan French fries are to-die-for, and there's even a Corktree surf 'n' turf, combining New York strip steak and a scallop. French press coffee was the perfect complement.

They think big at Corktree, And they have the good taste to back it up.

— Rita Moran visits restaurants unannounced and pays for her food. If you know of a new, unusual or just plain good restaurant, please contact her at ritamoran@earthlink.net.