Dana Rene Bowler / star staff [ stand out ] @TO-Cal Stand Out hed:Oh! Sushi 2121 N. Rose Ave., Suite 400, Oxnard, near Wal-Mart. 988-0808. A bright and lively sushi spot in an Oxnard shopping center, Oh! Sushi offers Japanese specialties to suit almost any taste, from noodles and teriyaki to plenty of sushi and sashimi (all of the basics, plus 35 specialty rolls). Appetizers include a very good pokky tuna plate. Combos range from basic rice bowls to the substantial 12-piece Sushi Combo (pictured).

Here's a look back at Rita Moran's recent restaurant reviews, in chronological order. Moran visits restaurants unannounced and pays for her meals.

Seagrass restaurant, 30 E. Ortega St., Santa Barbara. 963-1012. Seagrass specializes in fresh local seafood from the Santa Barbara Fish Market, plus fish and shellfish from sustainable fisheries, and produce from the farmers market. A sister restaurant to bouchon in Santa Barbara, it has the same proprietor, Mitchell Sjerven, and chef, Josh Brown. The decor radiates sea atmosphere. Scallops are offered as an appetizer or entree, each with its own unusual preparation. Other highlights of the menu, which changes seasonally, are citrus-glazed ahi tuna and Meyer lemon curd tart.

Harvard Cafe, 650 W. Harvard Blvd., Santa Paula. 921-0400. The modest cafe has a menu that covers breakfast, lunch and dinner at reasonable prices. It also offers the occasional surprise among its daily specials and regular menu (the latter includes the Black and Blue Quesadilla featuring sauteed mushrooms, red onions, grilled chicken strips, bell peppers and a sprinkling of blue cheese). Fans applaud the soups; the cream of broccoli is a winner. Service is prompt and helpful, and the atmosphere is basic but welcoming.

Bistro Ella, 1714 Newbury Road, Space E, Newbury Park. 498-2500. The cozy, elegant bistro is the creation of restaurateur Peyman Afshar, who also owns Leila's in Oak Park. Chef Richard DeMane oversees the food at both spots, explaining the bistro's similar focus on the fresh and the fanciful as it leans toward Eastern Mediterranean touches. The bistro demonstrates a distinctive character, from the simple but very tasty lavash crackers brought to the table in a glass globe at the start of the meal to the last bite of lemon crème brûlée. Ahi tuna carpaccio and artichoke soup decorated with swirls of red pepper coulis are beautiful to look at and appealing in taste. Unusual takes on familiar dishes include Ella's Waldorf salad, with strips of celeriac taking the place of traditional celery.

Vietnam Noodle Cafe, 476 W. Los Angeles Ave., Suite B-10, Moorpark. 523-3145. The tiny but tidy spot offers freshly prepared Vietnamese food with gracious service. The array of ethnic specialties includes a particularly good peanut-hoisin sauce with the shrimp and pork spring rolls and the Chinese sausage fresh rolls, both unfried items wrapped in edible rice paper. Some items that could be stand-alone entrees at other spots are blended into the cafe's noodle and/or rice soups, including chicken curry rice vermicelli soup and lemongrass beef stew rice noodle soup.