"Del Mar is planned for the exclusive. The deed granted to each property owner specifies this, and protects for all time the buyer from the encroachment of business or sordid conditions."

—From "Del Mar California," published by South Coast Land Co. of Los Angeles, 1912

DEL MAR — Hmmm. Well, it does seem that South Coast Land Co.'s charter has been pretty well observed to the letter in the compact, pristine home of a beautiful racetrack and a major thoroughfare named after Jimmy Durante. The charter is not as kind to tourists as the tiny downtown, which bends around 15th Street onto Camino del Mar and basically ends at Ninth Street, can often be clogged with cars. Camino del Mar has a speed limit perfect for second or third gear, with stop signs and much-used blinking crosswalks.

So, a walking tour is in order.

Hint: Bring good shoes. You will have a rocky road at one point on the roughly 2.5-mile journey.

Beach party: Start your tour (and perhaps stay) at the Del Mar Motel, a tidy, paint-peeling, blue-and-white stucco establishment right on the beach on the north end of town on Coast Boulevard (downgraded from highway, to minimize sordid conditions), with "No Running" signs in its corridors. If there is a more unpretentious motel sitting so close to the shoreline in Southern California, I haven't seen it. Wave fondly at the brick building across the street, which is the old, closed train station where the stars would come to watch the ponies race and that was such a convenient way to do Del Mar without a car. The closest stop is now a cab ride away in Solana Beach.

Mingle with Der Bingle: Stroll up through the very kid-friendly and ocean-overlooking Powerhouse and Sea Cliff parks, past the housewives working out with their private trainers in Sea Grove Park, and walk up to Stratford Square on 15th Street (note the wood and stone benches by the post office — downtown Del Mar has many such interesting places to sit).

Inside Stratford is a delightful photo gallery from the Hollywood heyday of the track featuring the likes of Ava Gardner and co-founder Bing Crosby (shown grinning and taking the first ticket from the first patron — a lady with a big hat — at the opening), Robert Taylor, Barbara Stanwyck, Ricky Arnaz, Lucille Ball and many more.

Around the corner on Camino del Mar is the Americana restaurant, which has a great tuna sandwich fully loaded with red onions and capers and is very local, where "the exclusive" dine at tables on the sidewalk.

Mall crawl: Cross the street and on the kitty-corner side, explore Del Mar Plaza, which has men's and women's apparel stores, art galleries, restaurants and four jewelry stores. The Plaza has a pleasant, Italian feel to it, with water from fountains burbling across long troughs, creeping vines, slowly curving walkways and elegant stone and brickwork. At the top of the curves, Il Fornaio is a good place to have breakfast and gaze out at the morning ocean — try the vegetarian omelet with a side of apple-smoked sausage.

A house is not a home: Cross the street to 1309 Camino del Mar, which is a modest, old, blue, wood-shutter-style house up a flight of stairs. Inside, completely incongruous to the exterior, is a spacious library with elegant high-beamed ceilings and skylights. It's a nice space in which to take a break.

If you take a quick left into a little room, you can access material in words and pictures on the history of the town, which is where the abovementioned "Del Mar California" can be found. ("Miles of splendid roadways and boulevards have been made, following the contour of the natural slopes in a manner that appeals to the artistic sense.")

After your whispered visit to the library, skip across the street to the Stratford Court Cafe, another local favorite, with a walk-up counter and a large wooden deck shrouded by tall bamboo on the perimeter.

This is good for both breakfast and lunch, with all kinds of sandwiches, salads and such — the curry chicken salad with honey mustard dressing is an excellent combination of sharp and subtle flavors.

Paint me a picture: Want to stay in a really fun-looking, offbeat place? Continue south along Camino del Mar and, just before Ninth Street, go see Les Artistes Hotel, a 12-room trip into fantasy art land. Each colorful room is decorated to evoke the spirit and art of various artists, including Gauguin, O'Keeffe, Rembrandt and Furo. The rooms are small but cozy; there are a couple of fountains and little sitting areas outside. This is not for everyone — it's a bit more communal than grand, but it is certainly memorable.

Walk the walk: And, finally, take Ninth Street down to the bluffs overlooking the beach. Watch your step; there are no concrete paths.

The trains run by here between the houses and the bluffs, and on top of the bluffs is a highly local pathway where people run, stroll, dog-walk and bike with a grand view of the wide, majestic beach running from the jagged cliff walls to the blue ocean.

It's a short stroll back to town, the only nagging part being that you end up on small rocks at the end (remember those sturdy shoes).

Head down to Jake's Restaurant, which is very popular and a great place to watch the sunset. The most popular drink there is an orange peach blossom margarita — a tame, pleasant libation, and it goes well with an order of the most popular starter, a lightly battered, slightly spicy calamari dish with an orange pineapple soy and pepper sauce.