Dotted with big trees and facing the undulating landscape, the Reagan Library patio would do any restaurant's ambience proud, especially at dusk.

The Simi Valley library is not a restaurant, of course, but its in-house catering team — in this case, the California Grillworks division of Command Performance, led by executive chef Maya Chrestensen — can turn out impressive meals, both for everyday tourists and for more special occasions.

Among those occasions is the new Sunset Dinner series. And if the remaining events in the series are anything like the June 28 opening, they will include ample buffets, excellent service and music appropriate to the theme of each evening.

The inaugural dinner was dubbed "Summer Celebration" and featured the 1950s-and-beyond music of Ronnie and the Classics, whose nostalgic, up-tempo selections brought smiles and cheers from guests seated at tables on the patio. It also brought dancers to the small floor set up for the occasion.

Most were about the right age to have appreciated the old-time favorites when they were new, but there were younger fans in attendance, too.

The buffet was already crowded when we arrived and were directed to a numbered table. A sangria bar, included in the $44.95-per-person price along with tax and tip, held forth at the edge of the patio, where white or red concoctions were poured on request.

In the background was a vast view, with a haze that softened the outlines and blotted out the details of the Pacific Ocean in the distance. A similar sight is said to have enchanted the Reagans, inspiring them to establish the library on that particular hillside and to choose the grounds for the president's burial site. Visitors to the dinner walked through gardens and past the Reagan monument, where many paused.

(Upcoming dinners will take place July 12 in the Air Force One Pavilion, July 26 on Ruwe Terrace near the museum's chunk of Berlin Wall and Aug. 9 on the Ambassador Terrace just outside the Air Force One Pavilion.)

We tried as many options from the buffet as we could, and we were not disappointed.

The skirt steak was tender and appropriately accented with an available chimichurri (garlic and herb) sauce. The salmon, which had been described in dinner series publicity materials as "wild-caught," turned out to be farm-raised, which a server freely acknowledged in response to another patron's question. (On the other hand, the chicken, which had been mentioned with no modifiers except "charbroiled" and "marinated," turned out to be the free-range version.)

The salmon, with its zesty salsa, was scooped up quickly.

Side dishes were impressive, beginning with the white cheddar jalapeño mac and cheese, a more elegant version of one of President Reagan's favorite dishes. Smooth, rich and creamy, it was traditional comfort food with the perfect, modernizing touch of zingy jalapeño. Also notable were a very good mix of grilled fresh vegetables and a corn salad.

Dessert choices were a chocolate Nutella and praline pastry, warm apple and blueberry crumble with an eggnog semifreddo sauce, and a big, juicy raspberry-filled cookie. Nutella was new to me, although a friend later told me that the hazelnut spread was a favorite of her children.

Service was notable all around, not just in the swift clearing of plates. Pitchers of ice water were refilled in timely fashion, and members of the buffet-table staff were knowledgeable and friendly, able to answer questions about everything they were serving.

That's no small feat, given that the menu will change with each dinner.

The "Classic Americana" meal planned July 12 will include sirloin medallion steaks, potatoes Anna, summer fruit salad and music by the Jumpin' Joz Band. The kid-friendly "Return to the Wild West" gathering taking place July 26 will feature hot dogs, barbecue chicken, ice cream brownie sundaes and music by the Riders of the Purple Sage.

Wrapping up the series Aug. 9 will be "An Irish Gathering," with music by Mrs. Murphy's Chowder and a menu that starts with beef brisket and ends with glazed apple fritters and spiced oat cookies.

— Rita Moran visits restaurants unannounced and pays for her meals. If you know of a new, unusual or just plain good restaurant, please contact her at ritamoran@earthlink.net.