Here's a look back at Rita Moran's recent restaurant reviews, in chronological order. Moran visits restaurants unannounced and pays for her meals.

L&L Hawaiian Barbecue, Bed, Bath & Beyond Plaza, 4020 E. Main St., Suite B-14, Ventura. 642-6888. With the opening of this location, the fast-casual chain now has sites throughout Ventura County. The food is basic home-style Hawaiian, fit for a picnic on the beach. Orders are taken at a counter for such basics as plate lunches with rice and macaroni salad, barbecued beef, chicken, kalua pork, short ribs and fried seafood. They also serve burgers, saimin noodle soup and such treats as Spam and Hawaiian hot dog musubi, made with rice and wrapped with nori (seaweed), in the style of sushi. All food is served in lightweight foam boxes, making it easy to carry home some of the large portions.

La Louisianne Express, 1854 Cochran St. at Erringer Road (behind the Chevron), Simi Valley. 582-2026. The husband-and-wife team of Steve and Shar-ri Stieffel run this homey Cajun restaurant, which draws on his Bay St. Louis, Miss., roots. Some menu items come from family members "back home." One such dish is boudin (rice and crab mixed with spices and stuffed into sausage casing), giving it the stamp of authenticity. Also very good is the rich and flavorful shrimp and ham jambalaya. The combo seafood platter changes with the seasons in elements and price; also available are boiled shrimp, crawfish or blue crab, and turtle soup. Entrees come with a cup of light cabbage soup and a slice of garlic bread for dipping.

Mastro's Steakhouse, 2087 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks. 418-1811. New to the county's list of steakhouses is this upscale outpost originating in Scottsdale, Ariz. (it also has locations in Costa Mesa and Beverly Hills). It replaces the former 2087 An American Bistro, but is an entirely different experience: darker, quieter and with exceptional steaks and other selected meats, as well as a chicken dish and a handful of seafood specialties. The menu is a la carte, with the entree price covering only the entree. Amenities include superior table service and restroom attendants.

The Grove at the Glen Tavern Inn, 134 N. Mill St., Santa Paula. 525-0555. Rising from the ashes of a fire that forced the closure last year of the upscale Avenue X, The Grove is owned by locals who are eager to please. There are plenty of flavorful options, including appetizers of sauteed little neck clams and scallops on the half-shell, a cran-raspberry salad and an entree of grilled prawns in wasabi-soy vinaigrette. Steaks and ribs are available and the already reasonable entree prices include a choice of two from among soup, salad, potato options and a selection of vegetables.

Sushi Teri, College Square Shopping Center, 100 N. Ashwood Ave., Ventura. 650-9310. Located near Ventura College, this new sushi-plus eatery has a lively look and friendly service. Appetizers include the familiar gyoza and the less commonplace shrimp shumai dumplings. Lunchtime choices include bento boxes and sushi and teriyaki variations. Sharing the basic sushi menu are specialty rolls like the Bath Street Roll, which pairs imitation crab with octopus, cream cheese, avocado and cucumber. This is the first Sushi Teri in Ventura County.