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Big waves a California dream for local surfers
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The waves that were predicted to barrel onto the coast arrived with a fury late Tuesday night, with 10- and 15-foot waves making today one of the best surf days many can remember.
“This is what you dream of when you dream of perfect California days,” said Taylor Jensen, a professional surfer who drove up from San Diego at 5 a.m. to catch the waves. “It really doesn’t get much better than this.”
Hundreds of people lined the beaches at the county’s most famous surf spots to watch those brave and skilled enough to paddle out.
“I surf, but not like this,” Laura Kranzler said as she watched a set of 12-foot waves roll in at Rincon. “I don’t think I’ve ever seen it this big.”
Everyone agreed today was the best day of this year for surfing, and some said it was the best in many years, including the swell that came ashore last Christmas.
UC Santa Barbara sophomore Chris Hakes broke his new board in the big waves — a board he only got to use three times — but it was worth every wave, he said.
“It was definitely worth $500,” he said.
Griff Hutton, supervising lifeguard for the California State Beaches Channel Islands district, said there have been a few rescues from the water but nothing terribly serious.
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