There's nothing like a mystery to grab our attention.

We got a tip about a new restaurant in Westlake Village, but the name wasn't quite clear: All we knew for sure was there was a number in it. The scent was getting hotter when we narrowed it down to Page 6. But as it turns out, the restaurant and lounge now goes by P6.

The story we got from our server was that the three-month-old restaurant did indeed start as Page 6, a reference to the location of a gossip column in a New York newspaper. But rather than imply an alliance with the paper, the owners decided instead to use a name of their own. So if you're looking for it, there's a big P6 on the side of the building.

Sleek is the word that describes the interior. Dividing the lobby from the main dining rooms and bar is a glass wall through which water cascades constantly.

Behind the back booths, instead of a wall are deep glassed-in areas with gray river rocks strewn across the base and bamboo trunks arranged in artistic stacks. I asked our server what the inspiration was for the window display, and he was quick with a comeback: "Don't you see the snakes?" (It does look a bit like something in a natural history museum but actually is a snake-free work of decorative art.) Another visual draw are the bar seats, which are see-through molded plastic in a soothing amber shade.

The lunch and dinner menus are California eclectic, offering something for almost everyone.

We picked lunchtime appetizers representing two cuisines: yellow corn tortilla soup ($6) and vegetarian dumplings ($8). The soup tasted like most good tortilla soups, with the corn component adding a pleasant creaminess.

The dumplings caught me off guard. Somehow, given the description of "vegetarian dumplings -- won-ton skins filled with shredded carrots, Napa cabbage, mushrooms and water chestnuts," I expected them to be steamed, and then perhaps sauteed to add crispness. But they were deep-fried, which made them plenty crisp. The filling was flavorful but subdued next to the crunchy package. A spicy soy sesame sauce was a lively complement.

For entrees, I fell for the Grilled P6 Fantasy Burger ($10) while my friend went for the braised baby back ribs ($14).

Ten bucks is a lot for a hamburger, but this was no ordinary sandwich. A half-pounder with a chipotle-horseradish barbecue sauce, sauteed onions and smoked Gouda cheese, it came with a side dish of my choice from among potato salad, french fries or macaroni salad. I would have preferred none of the above, given the size of the sandwich, but gamely requested potato salad to check it out.

Imagine my surprise when the brimming plate arrived with the potato salad plus coleslaw -- both in generous portions -- along with a pile of cornichons, little horn-shaped sweet pickles. But I wasn't going to be deterred from the burger. As ordered, it was cooked as rare as they felt safe and was a juicy, pink beauty.

The baby back ribs, served over caramelized onion mashed potatoes with crispy julienne vegetables -- a sprinkling of which also came with the dumpling appetizer -- didn't benefit from the braising. They were falling-off-the-bone tender but had the flavor of long-cooked pork rather than lighter, livelier barbecued ribs, despite the thick layer of chipotle barbecue sauce that covered all. I liked the potatoes, once we found them under the ribs.

We managed to squeeze in a shared Pear Belle Helene ($8, as are all P6 desserts) that tasted a little too subtly of the port wine syrup it was said to be poached in. It was split at the wide end and spread over the French vanilla ice cream, an unusual presentation. Whipped creme fraiche and a scattering of fresh berries completed the dish.

The staff at P6 is admirably pleasant. The extent to which they'll go to satisfy customers played out at a table near us. I saw a plate delivered to a diner who turned it away as "too rare." I assumed she was referring to the Fantasy Burger, though she might possibly have ordered a grilled ahi or New York steak sandwich.

A short while later, a server presented the dish again -- and again she rejected it, apologizing for any trouble she was causing. Staff members assured her it was no problem, and the sandwich was returned to the kitchen.

E-mail Rita Moran at ritamoran@earthlink.net.

P6 RESTAURANT & LOUNGE

LOCATION: 2809 Agoura Road, Westlake Village. http://www.p6lounge.com. 778-0123.

HOURS: Opens at 11 a.m. Mondays through Fridays, 9 a.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Closes at midnight Sundays through Thursdays, 1 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays.

WHAT'S HOT: Yellow corn tortilla soup, grilled P6 Fantasy Burger, Pear Belle Helene.

IMPRESSIONS: Very contemporary look, agreeable staff, eclectic cuisine.

COST OF LUNCH FOR TWO: $18-$48.

-- Reviewed one day in September