The place: Bellavino Wine Bar, 3707 E. Thousand Oaks Blvd., Thousand Oaks, http://www.bellavinowinebar.com, 557-0212.

The chef: Richard Hyman, 44, was born in Brooklyn. He trained at the Culinary Institute of America at Hyde Park, in the kitchen of The Beverly Hills Hotel, and with Susan Feniger and Mary Sue Milliken of "Too Hot Tamales" fame at their Border Grill restaurants in Los Angeles, Pasadena and Las Vegas. He lives in West Hollywood and has a son, Zack, 12.

Favorite ingredients: "The list changes every day," Hyman said. "Today, it's really good Spanish olive oil. And butter."

Most memorable meal: Hyman's fondest food memories are of "sushi orgies" with his late father, a clothing manufacturer. He also took Dad's advice for finding good food on the road: Look for the truck stop with the most trucks parked out front. Hyman did just that while driving from Houston to Los Angeles in the early 1980s and wound up tasting the "best chicken-fried steak, mashed potatoes with gravy and apple pie ever" somewhere in Texas.

The look: Owner Richard Belloff opened the wine bar next to his Bellavino wine shop in November, in what used to be a sushi restaurant. Its color scheme of browns, golds and blues is highlighted by dozens of art-glass spindles that hang from the ceiling and by a crackle-glass bar that glows blue from within. The glass-walled wine cellar doubles as a humidor.

Aren't we a pair? Hyman suggests a glass of Dr. Loosen Blue Slate 2002 Riesling from Germany, $9, to go with his featured dish, $10 at the restaurant. "The sweetness of the Riesling counterbalances the spiciness of the fish," he said.

Dish on the dish: Hyman often serves this recipe with micro versions of Asian greens dressed in pickled-ginger juice, peanut oil, soy sauce and white miso. Here he calls for a store-bought seaweed salad called goma wakame, available in Asian markets.



Yellowtail Cevichewith Asian Salad

• 1 pound sushi-grade yellowtail
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• 1/2 cup lemon juice
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• 1/2 cup orange juice
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• 1/2 cup lime juice
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• 1/2 cup light soy sauce
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• 2 tablespoons roasted sesame oil
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• 1/4 cup Thai-style sweet chili sauce, sold in some Asian markets as Mae Ploy
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• 1/4 cup minced scallions
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• 1 bunch cilantro, minced
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• 1 6-ounce package prepared goma wakame
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• 1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds
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• 1 tablespoon Sriracha chili sauce, sold in Asian markets (look for red squeeze bottles decorated with a white rooster)

Slice fish across the grain into 1/8-inch-thick pieces. Place pieces in a glass bowl.

Pour the citrus juices, soy sauce, sesame oil and sweet chili sauce over the fish. Add the scallions and cilantro and toss to coat the fish. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and place in refrigerator for at least one hour before serving.

When ready to serve, divide the goma wakame among four plates. Arrange pieces of marinated fish on top of the goma wakame. Garnish with toasted sesame seeds and drips of the Sriracha sauce.

Serves four.