Catching the wave of popular little wine bars that also serve food, Maureen Clark has eased in with Movino at the Arcade in Ojai. The name is an amusing play on the owner's nickname, "Mo," and the Old World word for wine, vino.

Movino Wine Bar & Gallery is longer than it is wide, but it makes up for the sparse space with comfortable seating and good-looking decor. Even during daylight hours, the establishment is darkened by burnished woods and discreet lighting. With the food and wine come a gallery of paintings and photos, eye candy to accompany the palate pleasers.

For those who enjoy people-watching, the side storefront windows allow a view of shoppers strolling through a pathway from the back parking lot to Ojai Avenue. Entrance from the avenue is through a quaint Dutch door past a wall of dark cabinetry that serves as wine storage.

Seating is at small tables in cushioned chairs, on a pair of upholstered couches or at the small bar. We settled for a table near the bar and made our own wine decisions from among the many Central-Coast-and-beyond choices, a good array of familiar wines and an intriguing scattering of unusual choices.

Left to our own devices, we were happy with our selection of two reds: an Adelaida Schoolhouse syrah and Peachy Canyon sangiovese. We had visited both wineries before and were particularly impressed at that time by Adelaida, a Paso Robles area winery far back in the hillside toward the ocean, with a slight view of the back of Hearst Castle. The syrah easily measured up to expectations with its lingering full flavor. The sangiovese was less opulent but a good match for food. Both were served in tall, elegant glasses.

The menu of "small plates" and "large plates" is limited but contains some goodies. It was designed by chef Susan Coulter, who was with Movino at its inception but last month began moving into more of a consultant role as she focused on her own catering business.

The kitchen is compact, but a few complex dishes are turned out despite the limitations. Our first course was a shrimp saute ($12), with shrimp, garlic and capers stirred together in olive oil, then served over a "warm herbed crouton," which seemed to us like a piece of good flat-bread soaked with the flavors. All worked well together, and it was a good start for the repast.

Our gracious server asked if we wanted the plates served in any particular order, and we agreed with her suggestion that we have the shrimp first, then the day's special pizza ($10) and steak sandwich ($14).

There was a long delay before the first course -- no problem, as we had told her we had plenty of time -- then the shrimp saute arrived, quickly followed by the pizza. The server seemed as surprised as we were and agreed to ask the cook to hold up the sandwich until we had sampled the pizza.

The pizza du jour was light and tasty, with a paper-thin crust and a light topping of cheeses, onion and portobello mushroom slices, perfect to taste while sipping wine. The steak, onions and creamy horseradish in the sandwich were a delicious combo, with the slice of meat tasting like rib-eye steak. The cold, thick bun, however, was more dough than we needed. Perhaps if the bread had been warmed it would have seemed less overwhelming. My friend managed well by simply removing the bun and concentrating on the insides.

Fresh mixed salad greens in a tangy vinaigrette were a fine complement to the dishes.

We didn't have to worry about the warm chocolate souffle ($6) being too much for two, as it was tiny but with good dark-chocolate flavor. A very strong cup of coffee completed our visit.

We were impressed by the wine list at Movino and by the food the kitchen was able to produce with limited facilities. Our visit was early on a Sunday evening, and just a few other customers joined us. The serene atmosphere is enlivened with entertainment on Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Happy hour runs 4 to 6 p.m. Thursdays.

E-mail Rita Moran at ritamoran@earthlink.net.

MOVINO WINE BAR & GALLERY

LOCATION: In the Ojai Arcade at 308 E. Ojai Ave., Ojai. 646-1555.

HOURS: 4 to 11 p.m. Mondays through Thursdays, 4 p.m. to 1 a.m. Fridays, noon to 1 a.m. Saturdays, noon to 9 p.m. Sundays.

WHAT'S HOT: Mushroom, onion and cheese pizza, steak sandwich.

IMPRESSIONS: Quiet atmosphere, friendly service, limited menu with tasty food and wide choice of wines.

COST OF MEAL FOR TWO: $20-$38.

-- Reviewed one evening in August.