It's lunch time again at Jonathan at Peirano's, the handsome Mediterranean-themed restaurant across from San Buenaventura Mission in downtown Ventura.

When founder and former owner Jonathan Enabnit decided to pursue a different career path, he left the restaurant last month in the seasoned hands of his chef, Jason Collis. The new owner appreciates the history of the building, which old-timers will remember as Nick Peirano's Italian grocery store. But Collis has some ideas of his own for the restaurant's future, and the re-introduction of lunch is one of them.

After a hiatus since January, the noontime crowd is back to savor familiar specialties plus gradual additions by Collis, who is enthusiastic about local produce and plans to keep the menu seasonally fresh while gradually introducing some of his own original dishes.

The bright and airy ambience of Jonathan's is even more obvious during the day, when the light woods, high ceiling and rotating art display on the brick walls create a lively, inviting atmosphere. The long lines of the dining room give way on one side to a small platform where diners get an elevated view of the decor.

Lunch and dinner also are served on the side patio, weather permitting, which it usually does, and customers can stroll through a hallway over to the adjacent J's Tapas, which specializes in appetizers and a casual, wine and cocktail atmosphere.

We started our lunch with a tapas dish, typical of the small-plate delicacies that have rapidly spread in popularity from Spain to the New World and beyond. Garlic-seared shrimp and scallops ($9.95) arrived steaming from the kitchen. Our thoughtful server immediately brought an extra plate so we could divide and share.

The seafood was perfectly cooked, and the accompanying sauteed mushroom added to the flavors, along with a lively mango Marsala reduction. Each of the elements sang its own tune yet blended into a harmonious whole. Warm flat bread enriched with olive oil and garlic was a welcome accompaniment.

Our entrees, one of the newer wraps and the day's ravioli special, arrived promptly, along with extra utensils and small sharing plates added by our solicitous server.

The Mediterranean Thai chicken wrap ($8.95) managed to comfortably combine ethnicities. The generous portion of grilled chicken breast marinated in Moroccan and Thai chilies was wrapped in a basil tortilla with fried pad Thai noodles, spicy Asian greens and marinated cucumbers. A sesame, lime-ginger aioli bridged the culinary gap. It was a spicy treat.

Shrimp ravioli ($9.95) were light in texture and full of ground shrimp. Luckily, my friend and I are both caper fans and happily slurped up all of the white wine/caper sauce that was ladled over the ravioli.

We saved a little space for dessert and felt nutritionally virtuous with our choice of a poached pear -- even if we did agree to the suggested scoop of vanilla ice cream that mingled with the port and cinnamon flavors of the sauce.

Collis is continuing to develop the menu through daily special salads, soups, ravioli and pizza. Many of the old favorites remain, including spicy crab bisque, Mediterranean chopped salad, paella and the irresistible chocolate mystery dessert.

Regulars may miss the presence of the genial Enabnit, but chef/owner Collis was very visible the day we did lunch, stopping by each table after what seemed to be each course to check on the customers and to get feedback on their preferences. That sounds like a recipe for success.

JONATHAN AT PEIRANO'S

LOCATION: 204 E. Main St., Ventura. 648-4853; http://www.jonathansatpeiranos.com.

HOURS: Lunch: 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesdays through Saturdays. Dinner: from 5:30 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays.

WHAT'S HOT: Garlic-seared shrimp and scallops, shrimp ravioli, Mediterranean Thai chicken wrap.

IMPRESSIONS: Light and airy with art on display; prompt, solicitous service; food with a Mediterranean touch.

COST OF LUNCH FOR TWO: $18-$30.

-- Reviewed one day in August

E-mail Rita Moran at ritamoran@earthlink.net.