Owner/operator William Seaberry calls the food at The Meltdown "comfort food with a flair," and he's got that right.

Basics such as burgers and chicken sandwiches come in so many guises that customers are bound to find something that suits them.

I was a bit wary of the 6-month-old restaurant's Meltdown imagery, with a logo that suggested volcanic reverberations -- and the likelihood that cheese would be melting on many of the menu items. As it turns out, that's true. But a careful perusal of the extensive menu will turn up healthy food options, and Seaberry's mission statement, posted on the front of his menus, vows to accommodate vegetarians or those on special diets.

That being said, it's difficult to resist some of the "cheesier" options. From the charbroiled burger list, we chose what is probably the most far-fetched of the combinations, the Hana burger ($7.99): a burger on a wheat bun with grilled ham, pepper Jack cheese, grilled onions and mushrooms, lettuce, grilled pineapple and teriyaki sauce. My friend sliced a bit off the burger for me to sample, and I found the ham, cheese, etc., quite tasty indeed. But where was the beef? Unfortunately, the portion I tasted was missing the best part. So I returned to the Hana and this time took a portion of the thick burger. Seaberry has ensured a good beef flavor by using fresh ground chuck, and it shows. All of the one-third-pound burgers come with a choice of fries, onion rings or a side salad. We added the onion rings, sweet with a spicy accent in the breading.

I was torn between the Southwestern chicken wrap and the cashew-tuna salad, but finally decided on the former and managed to coax a taste of the tuna salad on the side from our calm and efficient server. The chicken wrap ($8.99) was a case of love at first bite. The chicken had a fine grilled flavor and came wrapped in a spinach tortilla with apple-smoked bacon, lettuce, corn, red peppers, onions and chipotle cream cheese. A sour cream-lime-cilantro sauce was ideal for dipping. Wraps are served with a generous side salad and choice of dressing. We selected a simple oil and vinegar, but in addition to familiar flavors there are also sun-dried tomato and raspberry vinaigrette, balsamic vinegar and oil and lime-cilantro dressings.

The cashew-tuna salad, available as a salad or as part of a "melt," is light in texture and flavor, with the cashews adding crunch and a bit of sweetness.

Finally, we couldn't resist the grilled vegetable quesadilla ($6.99). Once it arrived at the table, we were happy to see that it had an excellent balance between vegetables and cheese, with the emphasis on the veggies. The grilled vegetables included lots of just-tender broccoli flowerets, carrots, red bell pepper and mushrooms, and just the right amount of cheddar and Jack cheeses. With the quesadilla come tortilla chips, a delicious fresh salsa, guacamole and the yummy sour cream-lime-cilantro sauce.

I couldn't believe my friend was actually inquiring about dessert as we packed up a portion of the chicken wrap and quesadilla to enjoy at home, but Seaberry confessed that the cheesecake and ice cream listed on the menu were no longer available. Instead, he touted four versions of pecan pie that he has brought in from a provider: coconut, chocolate and traditional pecan pie, plus Spanish walnut pie, all served in round tart shape. We split the walnut pie and found it just right.

Seaberry, who has a background in managing restaurants but is experiencing his first time as an owner, is relishing the challenge. He is dedicated to offering ingredients of good quality in creative versions of popular dishes. It sounds like a good formula.

The Meltdown, which is adjacent to a bowling alley, has a crisp and clean look from the outside and a comfortable one inside. Rustic wooden beams -- remaining from the restaurant's previous life as a barbecue spot -- and short burlap curtains give the interior a handsome, homespun look.

ABOUT THE MELTDOWN

LOCATION: 305 B Arneill Road, Camarillo.

HOURS: 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays, 7:30 a.m. to 11 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. 389-7300.

WHAT'S HOT: Southwestern chicken wrap, grilled vegetable quesadilla, Hana burger, cashew-tuna salad.

IMPRESSIONS: Western home-style atmosphere, pleasant and prompt service, food with plenty of variations and zip.

COST OF LUNCH FOR TWO: $10-$18.

-- Reviewed one day in May

E-mail Rita Moran at ritamoran@earthlink.net.