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French and American butter

Q: What is the difference between French and American butter? I watched a show on television and the baker said the secret to his cookies was French butter. Where can one find this item?

- Tracey S., Dallas, Texas.

A: By law, butter must be at least 80 percent fat and not more than 15 percent water. The remaining five or so percent is made up of milk solids and in salted butters, salt. French and French-style butters just have a higher percentage of fat than mass-produced American butters.

The lower the water content, the more flavorful the butter is, but also, as in the case of those great French butters, more expensive. Some American butter producers are now turning out delicious butter made in the French style and these can be found in gourmet food markets.

If you are planning on substituting French butter for American in a baking recipe, be aware that the recipe was probably tested using plain, old American butter. If the recipe calls for a great deal of butter, the French butter may make it turn out a bit greasier or fattier. If you're buying butter for toast or muffins or sauces, the French butter is the way to go.

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