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Culinary Q&A: Scallops

Q: Are scallops muscles? What are they really?

A: In America, scallops are shucked from their shells and cleaned. What is widely enjoyed as scallops are the protein-dense abductor muscles of the scallops. Unlike other bivalves, scallops are mobile in water: their abductor muscle snaps their two shells open and shut, which propels them. Scallops cannot keep their shells tightly closed, once they are removed from the water, their viscera tends to dry out and can spoil relatively quickly.

There are two types of fresh scallops on the market, dry and wet. Dry scallops are unadulterated, whereas wet ones are chemically treated to extend their shelf life. Dry scallops, also called diver scallops, have cream-colored flesh, ocean-fresh aroma and superior taste and texture. Fresh dry scallops clump together in a mass; store them in an airtight container on ice in the refrigerator, for up to two days.

Wet scallops are treated with a chemical phosphate, which can extend shelf life up to a few weeks. Wet scallops are stark white, unusually plump, and leach water. When cooked, wet scallops purge water, which prevents them from browning when sauteed. Wet scallops are not recommended, frozen scallops would be a better choice. Scallops are also available smoked or salt-dried; they have a concentrated flavor and taste, and are often used as a condiment. Smoked or salt-dried scallops can be stored at room temperature.

There are several varieties of scallops cultivated and harvested worldwide, although the most commonly found are sea, calico and bay. Sea scallops average 1 to 2 inches across and 1 1/2 inches thick. Available year-round, sea scallops' peak season is during the winter. Tiny calico scallops (not more than 1/2-inch round) thrive in warm water, along the Florida Gulf Coast, down through Central America. Steamed before shucked, these scallops are always sold partially cooked. Bay scallops are about 1/2 inch across and no more than 1-inch thick.

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